Did you know that skin with melanin produces more oil?
This natural wonder makes melanated skin less prone to wrinkles and better at retaining moisture. But, if melanated skin is not properly cleaned, excess oil can clogged pores and cause acne that leads to dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
In my years of making skincare products and studying esthetics, the biggest reason that melanated skin is dull or acne prone, which leads to hyperpigmentation; is that our skin is not being properly cleansed.
Quite honestly, I was in my 30's when I found that there was a better way to wash my face, especially as a melanated woman.
What I've learned is that skin with a higher concentration of melanin produces more sebum.
What does that mean for you as a melanated man or woman? Well, if you've ever experienced moisturized daily, used every drop of oils and shea butter in your house, AND drank all the water you could find, but your skin still felt dry, parched, and tight...then you've probably just experienced clogged pores and excess sebum on your skin.
If your really pay attention to your skin when this happens, sometimes you can feel a slight "waxy coating" on the surface your skin. That waxy coating is sebum. And it's stopping your lotion, oils, and shea butter from penetrating your skin. This can happen anywhere on your body where there are pores and hair follicles, including your face.
Unfortunately, most skincare is created using outdated standards that don't consider or account for the unique makeup of melanin-rich skin. And since many skincare brands and formulators follow the same blueprint, melanated-rich skin does not get the love, proper nourishment, or treatment that it both needs and deserves. But I won't get on a soapbox today. Instead, let's just get into a better way of addressing excess sebum and oil production in our beautiful brown skin.
First, to combat excess sebum, we need a cleanser that targets excess oil. And although facial soaps and water based cleansers can dissolve dirt, they're not very effective at dissolving oil and sebum.
For cleansing sebum, we use a method called "oil cleansing".
What is oil cleansing exactly and how do you do it?
Oil cleansing involves massaging pure plant oil(s) into your face, allowing it to dissolve the excess oils and sebum in your pores, and wiping it away with a clean damp cloth or cleansing pad. I'll admit that the idea of oil cleansing sounds counter productive. And you maybe wondering why the oil wouldn't just clog your pores even more? But, that's the beauty of science. The idea is that "like attracts like" and the oils that you massage into your skin actually dissolve the excess oils in your pores. And as a bonus, oil cleansing is the BEST way to remove makeup. It truly works and it's a game changer for clogged pores, a dull complexion, and acne prone skin. Oil cleansers are oil based cleansers that are massaged into the skin and wiped away with a damp cloth or cleansing pad.
Oil cleansers can be used alone or used with a non-stripping facial soap or water based cleanser as part of a two step cleansing practice called "double cleansing".
When I began "double cleansing", I had significantly less breakouts, my skin felt more balanced, and irritation and scars healed more quickly.
I've been double cleansing for several years now and I know that I've found my perfect cleansing practice. If you have melanated skin and would like to learn more or experience the wonders of double cleansing, take a look at my Golden Skin Collection kit.
I'd love to hear your thoughts, questions, or experiences with oil cleansing or double cleansing!